Fashion month took us overseas to London, where we caught up on all of the trends from some of London’s most renowned fashion houses. Though audience-less shows and model-only presentations still carried on, we took a virtual front-row seat and are spilling the tea on some of the most incredible collections from London Fashion Week.
This season, Erdem brought the theatrical drama with a collection inspired by the ballet. We were mesmerized by the fluidity of the pleated skirts that Erdem highlighted by a spotlight and marveled at the intricate jewel-encrusted details on blouses and gowns.
Though Erdem is known for exquisite evening gowns, the Canadian designer chose to create a collection that was still grand but yet relatively subdued, which we think could be a result of the nature of the pandemic. With duality present in Erdem’s collection a la dancing inspired rehearsal clothes versus decadent performance costumes, the London-based fashion house left us yearning for more whimsy in our mundane routines of lockdown life.
Some pieces oozed ballet-inspired motifs like the babydoll satin dress that at a glance resembles a tutu and leotard, swan lake headpieces, and grey ribbed knitwear that includes leggings, ankle and wrist warmers. Remove the platform ballet slipper shoes and swap them for a pump or sexy stiletto, and you’ll be ready for a glamorous night out someday.
2. Simone Rocha
Simone Rocha’s design aesthetic has always exhibited a sense of enchanting, yet eerie romance – and this season was no different. For her Fall 21 collection, she contrasted her typical feminine flair with an air of gothic grunge, creating designs that were dedicated to the “fragile rebel”. She took her signature oversized silhouettes and girlish details to a new place, giving them a tougher direction and flirting on both sides of the fine line she usually draws between softness and strength.
With her newfound sense of edginess also came the use of what she calls her three graces – satin, tulle and leather – which are a match made in heaven, if you ask us. Throughout the collection, she uses these graces to prove that opposites do attract. She consistently creates a juxtaposition between layers upon layers of delicate tulle, ruffles and lace by pairing them with leather biker jackets and chunky, thick-soled brogues.
Rocha also explained that she drew inspiration from the solace she took in structure and uniformity, especially during a year filled with so much chaos and disorder. And while this is ever apparent in the preppy schoolgirl look that frequently appears throughout the collection, her take on a uniform is far from typical. In one look, she layers a cropped leather jacket with a ruffled shoulder detail over a crisp white button-down and then playfully pairs it with a tulle tutu underneath.
While her designs continuously shocked us as they made their way down the runway, one of the few things that didn’t come as a surprise was the fact that Rocha’s signature rose-motif bloomed throughout the entire collection. Not only did they appear in the form of striking three dimensional flowers that were exquisitely sculpted into fabric, but also on the intricate hand-embroidered designs that were sewn into the seams of edgy leather and romantic tulle alike. Rocha’s collection included some unexpected twists and turns, but we can’t say we minded. And if this is any indication of what her designs will look like as we progress into our “new normal”, you can certainly sign us up.
What were some of your favorite moments from London Fashion Week?